A few weeks ago some friends and I took a trip north, to Pushkar, for the much anticipated Pushkar Camel Fair. This auspiciously-timed annual gathering is an important local event and has become quite popular in the tourist scene. Knowing this, I was both excited and leery as we left Udaipur on an early morning train on the 28th.
After a lovely 5-hour train ride through Rajasthan’s semi-desert landscapes, we arrived in the city of Ajmer where we hired a car to take us the remaining 11 kms to Pushkar. My friend and fellow Clinton Fellow, Tatiana was awaiting us at our hotel. After some negotiations with the hotel owner, (who was understandably surprised to see we planned to board 8 people in the two rooms we had reserved), we took his advice and headed across the street to an Ashram offering a free meal to residents and travelers alike.
The leaf plates and bowls are one of my favorite things in India, though I’ve already in my short time seen them replaced in some places by the more modern plastic or paper/aluminum version. I was starved from the long journey and didn’t think to snap a photo until I had pretty much devoured the delicious kachori, parantha, dahl, and namkeen – a few of my favorite things. After lunch, the big group split up and Tatiana and I hit the streets.
The Pushkar Camel Fair happens in one of the holiest months of the Hindu calendar, Kartika, the eighth lunar month, and is held in one of India’s holiest cities – Pushkar is a pilgrimage town that devout Hindus should travel to at least once in their life. The town’s holy lake is said to have appeared when Brahma dropped a lotus flower there and is home to India’s only (and one of the world’s few) Brahma Temple.
Tribal peoples from all over Rajasthan, pilgrims from all over India, and tourists from all over the globe descend upon Pushkar in time for Kartik Purnima (the eighth full moon). The Fair is preceded by the trading of camels, cattle, and horses amongst hundreds of thousands of Rajasthani traders. For just under two weeks, the small, devout town of Pushkar comes alive (and overcrowded) with cacophony of colors and sounds of more than 200,000 traders, musicians, Sadhus (mystics), religious pilgrims, tourists, and animals.
Many of the above photos were taken during our first morning’s adventure: a ‘Spiritual Walk’ (aka parade) that began just outside of our hotel in the early morning.
Pushkar essentially wraps around the (currently drought-dried) holy lake. The lake is rimmed by 52 bathing ghats – where we were shocked to see topless women bathing (an extreme anomaly in very modest Rajasthan) – and 400 Hindu temples. Every one of our 5 days in Pushkar was filled to the brim, morning and night, with the sights and sounds of the convergence of religious celebration and livestock trading – streets were continuously filled with hoards of people and the musical chantings of godliness rang even in our sleeping ears.
The visiting Thar Desert animal traders were set up just outside the main bazaar in a campground of medieval reminiscence. We took a few opportunities to wander around amongst the camels, horses, and gypsies.
What began likely hundreds of years ago (if not more) as a trading and religious gathering has now, in many ways, also become a State Tourism-run mecca of events. The tourism board organizes programs to draw and entertain tourists, such as a moustache contest (a must-see for me), a turban tying contest, and more. I had hoped that Brian would make it here for the moustache competition, but alas. (Though he is set to arrive here in Udaipur on December 16 and will be here for two months. My excitement is not easily contained!)
The photo of me and the flag waving contestant was “arranged” by one of the event photographers – I had to stand there and pose with this guy (who was furious at his loss) in front of dozens of cameras. It happened so fast; someone kind-of pushed me next to him, indicating they needed a photo and next thing I knew I was empathizing with the paparazzi-loathing stars. I quickly grabbed an envious onlooker and pushed him into my place. Who knows how many places those pictures have shown up!
Obviously by the number of photos here there was a lot to see and do in Pushkar that week. A few of us were blessed to get “behind the scenes” a bit and befriend some really wonderful people. I think I’ll save that story for the next post – stay tuned!
20 Comments
Beautiful pictures, Jenny B! Thanks for sharing your adventures with us! I am loving the leaf plates and the fancy camels. (:
Oh, thanks so much Eleanor – wonderful to hear from you! It’s my pleasure – and even more so to know that people are actually looking at this thing and enjoying it! Hope you’re well!! ~jb
Hey Jenny B, I am so happy to see new pictures. I think these are the best yet! What a wonderful festival that is. The pictures bring the experience so much closer. I love all of them, especially the on with camel with his head on the cart.
I eagerly await more!
Love, Mom
Awesome pictures. Turbans and mustaches. Can one ask for anything else? I should move to Rajasthan.
These are GREAT!!!! you have a gift my friend of a great eye..those pictures bring us all there with you…thank you. i hope you are well…we need to coordinate a catching up session..take care and i await for the tales of your next adventure.
lots of love,
~tracy
Hello Ms Jenny
I am from the southern Indian state of Kerala. I stumbled upon your blog when I was collecting pictures for a presentation on India’s varied landscape. As I read more, I was gripped by your exceptional ability to bridge the Indian mindset with that of the west. Yours is the best blog I have seen on Rajasthan. I have been to the state myself, but you make me want to revisit and explore it further. Thank you for doing a great job.
And, if I may add, I would recommend that you take the time to visit my little state (Kerala) before leaving India. Year after year, we compete with Rajasthan for the top Indian tourist destination spot.
Hi Sharath,
Wow, thank you so much for your kind words – I’m extremely flattered and humbled.
Actually, Brian and I will be in Kerela for two weeks in January. Can you recommend some not-so-touristy places to us?
And come back to Rajasthan – it IS wonderful here!! ; )
Warm regards,
~jenny b
You guys sure are sweet – I love my flattering friends! ; ) (no seriously, i love you!!) ~jb
Hey Jenny
It’s great to know that you’re visiting Kerala. January is a very good time indeed.
Most of the ‘must-see’ places in KL are more or less ‘touristy’. In any case, I am listing a few of my personal favourites that are often under-appreciated.
1. Wayanad District
The name literally translates as “Land of the Paddy Fields”. But Wayanad is so much more than that. It is a heavily forested part of the Western Ghats. Probably the best place in KL to locate Asian Elephants. If you are into trekking and climbing, Wayanad is THE place for you. Three of the best spots/experiences in Wayanad are: Kuruva Island (Be prepared to wade through shallow streams), Edakkal Caves (Noted for pre-historic hand drawings) and Muthanga Wild Life Sanctuary (must try the Elephant ride).
3-4 days spent in Wayanad should spare you enough time to see so much more including Pookot Lake and Lakkidi.
2. Nelliyampathy (a little known hill station in Palakkad Dist. It’s a wonderful place to just chill out, with not many people around. Alternative to Munnar)
3. Lakshadweep (Laccadives):
This group of islands 440 km off the coast of KL is a union territory of India (meaning it’s governed by the central govt. at New Delhi) It‘s a relatively untouched group of coral islands, very peaceful and hardly ever crowded. There is a growing trend of tourists clubbing their visit to Kerala with a 4-5 day trip to Lakshadweep. Here’s a link to just one of the many tour operators: http://www.akshayaindia.com/HotelPackage-Lakshadweep.htm
4. If you are into cultural tourism, there are bound to be many temple festivals (Poorams/Utsavams/Arattu) in the month of January. It’s worth witnessing one. I am pasting a link here to a website that lists the festival dates for the year 2009. Next year’s list will soon be published. The dates will be slightly different in 2010 as the festivals are dated as per the South Indian Hindu Calendar.
http://www.keralatourpackage.org/kerala-fairs.html.
However, I feel that the best thing to do in this regard would be to ask your personal guide/driver/local contact when you’re here, which festival’s around the corner (literally).
PS: Something I tell anyone who asks about beaches in KL, if u want to stay on/near a beach, best options are Cherai(Cochin) or Nellikunnu(Trivandrum). Otherwise, for a simple evening visit, the Pudu Vypeen beach (6 km from Cochin) is more pristine and secluded.
Ok Jenny. I hope this information will be helpful; Google the names of the places to know more. Let me remind you that these are not the ‘top-spots’ in Kerala, but gradually emerging as important destinations. So I hope you prioritise before planning.
Have fun and enjoy God’s Own Country when you’re here.
Namashkar,
Sharath
Hey Jenny B,
I am starting my morning off by drinking coffee from the mug you gave me and reading your wonderful blog. The colorful pictures and your words put me right there. Also, glad to hear Brian is headed your way soon. Be safe, have fun, and keep adding to the blog. Have you been continuing with your yoga practice? ~Keith
Hi friend! Thanks much for checking in. Yes, still yogaing, though our teacher has been in Nepal for the last week, renewing his Indian visa… back on track with three classes a week on Monday! Miss you guys – best to the Welders! ~jb
Great job jenny b! I too enjoy that resting camel. Where do all the marigolds grow! Beautiful. Stay happy and healthy, love you, Bev. Hi Bri..
Jenny
Been remiss on checking your blog– and oh what a treat I’ve been missing!! The colors! and the culture….thanks again for broadening our world views here in the hollow of West Virginia.
It seems that Brian has some new facial hair challenges to take on!
oxoxo
meredith
its been really stupid that i could do by not visiting pushkar even after three years in udepor.i cant stop myself anymore now. will share my expe soon with you, in a couple of weeks.
you rock
jeeeeeennnnnnnnnnnnyyyyyyyyyy beeeeeeeeeeeeeee
That flag-waving moustache guy is out of this world!
What’s the latest, Jenny B?
Hope the New Year is off to a good start in India, and we miss you here in Fayetteville.
reid
killer photos!! great stories. very much enjoying all of this and it is surely taking me away from the COLD! you are missing a heck of a winter…sounds like you are ripping it up over there. keep it up! more blogging! xoxoxox
what up Jenny…sick pics for sure!!! what are you rocking=’- like 10 megapix or what!
Rajasthan, such a nice place to visit in india
Beautiful pictures,Turbans and mustaches. I too enjoy that resting camel.
Rajasthan admires by its Beauty and it was my favorite place in india thanks Jenny B for this information
Visit Lakshadweep Island and Nepal Trekking